One of the woodworking Sketchup videos teaches you how to do that. These are relatively easy to install, and they have a pretty good range of motion for your speakers. For this project, I wanted some reasonable numbers for design sizing.). Overall, they are nice, warm, and inviting, neither shrill nor boomy. lol you need a vintage (no 2nd side wall) miter saw and box set from stanley or craftsman or smthn for a small speaker like you have, or jigsaw/cutoff saw for bigger builds.and NO YOU WONT EVER GET 3.5" SPEAKERS TO SOUND GOOD. I chose not flush mounting.This resulted in an estimated 3.1 cubic inches for the driver displacement. Usually I go back one more time and make sure my measurements are correct and that the numbers make sense. However, without taking into account the technical details and specifications of a particular driver or driver set, you'll have no way of knowing if your box sounds the best it can sound. My hearing Aides do make an attempt to reproduce the sounds at a bit l lower frequencies so I can pick out some of the stuff that has been missing. Any aftermarket mounts for the Ikea Symfonisk bookshelf speakers yet? (Don't let anybody convince you that a CNC machine is more than 3-4 stepper motors, a wood router or dremel, a power source and a cheap computer.) To minimize the size of the box, I chose acoustic sheeting for inside. I find some tweeters annoying, and they tire my ears quickly. The first step prior to gluing is painting the internal surfaces with clear polyurethane or shellac or something that will seal the internal wood. The driver will get in the way of finishing. See similar items. Was: £28.99. I have a selection of wood veneer samples, and I tried lacquering a piece of MDF. I made one set of boxes with some scrap LDF (low density fiberboard) that I didn't measure first. Nevertheless, it's probably the best choice to construct your speaker boxes. and inspiring.meanwhile, an adult with industrial grade equipment should really refrain from such preachy hubris with the far less impressive results and less understanding of thecsubjrct matter. I picked up a pair of "decorative shelf brackets" (1 bracket/speaker) from Lowe's and cut suitable lengths from one of their prefab shelves. The last and final cut is cutting out all the parts for your project. Solid wood warps and changes with moisture: not features you'd want for speaker enclosures. I want to build speaker enclosures with a nice set of drivers that expose some of the fine details and texture of good music without being too shrill or too boomy. Worth looking into, but not part of my current tool set. I hope these notes are helpful. I just about killed myself trying to deliver these things. Thank you. For the best possible sound, put 'em on speaker stands. More buying choices £26.99 (2 new offers) B-Tech BT77 Ultragrip Pro Speaker Mount, Set of 2, Side Clamp with Tilt and Swivel, Black. Now my hearing isn't what it was when I left for Vietnam on August 15th 1970 (My first wedding anniversery!) The bottom plate requires a hole for the internal driver wire. That's ideal, but if you need to mount the speakers on a wall bracket, high up or low down, that's OK too. This is where experience or a mentor can be helpful. Audio Suspension ASU-100 Special Edition Wall Shelf . Saw dust, rapidly moving air from the vacuum and a spark or heat off the router bit or router, and you will be sad. Don't walk away from it while it is cutting. This is where I started. As a first step to bigger goals, I'd count this project as a success. Using www.diyaudioandvideo.com's excellent resources; this calculator to helps the decision. Your constructive comments are welcome. Over the years I've built a dust collector, a vacuum table, lighting and laser sights. So let's assemble the materials, equipment, etc. A duck's quack DOES echo!
. Before installing the driver, paint, veneer or lacquer your enclosure. For example, to make a fillet, there's a button tool to do that in 123Design whereas Sketchup requires a path and follow me tool. Tabs prevent each piece from flying into the router bit as the bit moves. Wall Shelves & Brackets. Scoffing and ridicule seems unnecessary. A good engineering reference can be found here. The second pocket formed the dado joints for the port baffles, back, front, top and bottom. 5 years ago =) Of course, now I'm curious if there might be a material which is *even better* than MDF? So hearing some of the old tunes that played before I left from these little speakers was a real treat! Moving the bit slightly inward 45 degrees will remove that material. I saw a smoke and a bit of char from the inside of one of the speaker holes. When the speakers came in, I looked around and that was the first amp I came up with.I built a tiny board with a earphone jack on her for the cable from my cell phone, then wired that to the input of the little amp which requires 12 volts to run. Especially if you are going to mount 20lb + speakers on them ... For relatively heavy (over 10lbs) and when you need to tilt speaker. Any CNC machine will work as you can machine the biggest part off the bed. For reference the equation is Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) = Free Air Resonance (Fs) / Driver Electrical "Q" (Qes). With respect to the tools that you have access to, you may need to design your enclosures differently. I don't have much experience other than to say its tool set tend to be more discrete. I could have saved myself some time by skipping the dados and making straight squares of material instead. Compare. Maybe nice expensive multilayered baltic birch would do come a close second, but I experimented here and felt guilty. Each step the computer mindlessly follows until it results into parts I drew in Sketchup. That actually makes complete sense. In retrospect, I think this is optional. VideoSecu Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Brackets. Going back to www.diyaudioandvideo.com's excellent resources, I found the speaker box calculator. Full range means I don't have to add tweeters or a sub. I am looking forward to some constructive comments. Autodesk's 123Design is also a good option. This is highly dependent on the CNC capabilities, router power and type of bit. Routing out pockets on the side pieces makes it easy to glue and air nail the bottom, top, front back and internals in perfect alignment. How To: DIY Speaker Wall Mounts. It is the equivalent of an up and down endmill that nicely cuts both sides of the wood, so that there is no tear-out or splintering on either side of the board. A few comments: I too went the CNC route because that's what I have available, not a table saw! I have some new projects to sketch out. that will never EVER sound good, not even a one in a million chance...now my kenwood japan $15 craigslist component system? Check your amplifier before deciding on your driver. That won't give you as much flexibility in sizing, but it should give you numbers that you could easily cut with regular power or hand tools. Sometimes I have to go back and make one more because the path wasn't quite right or by some fluke the board moved while it was cut, and the piece isn't quite square. The trick here is to line the sound-exposed surfaces without getting into the joints. It's machinable, temperature and moisture stable, consistently flat, and dense. There's a fire extinguisher next to the machine and the dust extractor is grounded with a wire wrapped around the plastic vacuum hose. So there's more than one way to achieve an optimal cabinet design. This was a design choice. Arbitrarily, the front face is 5" x 8.09" with a 3.1" hole centered 2.5" from the top. I could have put the port outside the box, but did I want a 9.21" long 1" cylinder sticking out the back of my speaker? The spec sheet lists these measurements in the metric system, so that's how I entered them. My good wife of 50 years has failing hearing as well, and playing my old 33 1/3 records on my Pioneer PL-50 turntable that I shipped home from Nam in '71 through my old Sony receiver, driving some ancient speakers some dude gave me at a ham-fest, well just doesn't sound right but these little gems, they do the job!. I wanted a slotted port that runs out the back with an independent resonator box. It's likely done to not confuse consumers. Safety equipment, check. I want to angle it roughly 20 degrees downward so that it's properly aimed at a listener sitting on a couch about ten feet away. He told me they designed the cabinet in the LS3/5a to be thin so that it would flex a little. The results were a Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) of 151 and the recommendation was to PORT. It was easy to come to the conclusion that I needed a slotted port. I put rubber feet on the bottom. 7. Some of the calculators I've used probably apply to bigger drivers like subwoofers, but I wanted the experience. It's a relatively inexpensive ($20-30) full range 8 ohm 3.5 inch driver with published technical specs. on Step 27, Even the $2,000 'high-end' speakers used MDF wood? 5 years ago. If it was a large subwoofer, the numbers would be very different and other design considerations would be needed, i.e. For a larger bookshelf with a six inch driver, a speaker stand will be the ideal choice. Make something unique that looks and sounds awesome. Posted by 10 months ago. There is a lot of static electricity that is generated when the sawdust moves through the tube. Your own tastes play a big role in decision making. Dog boning is moving the router bit into the corner of the material for inside corners. In this case, I chose to make multiple passes to not put too much lateral force on the material. The resonant box, as I am calling it, is the chamber directly behind the drivers that helps amplify the sound. Rob Cameron on YouTube has done an excellent job of getting people started using Sketchup for Woodworkers. The port design constraints are a cross-sectional area of .79 square inches, a width of 3.5 inches (without lining the port with acoustic sheeting), which is the internal width of the resonant box and a path length of 9.21 inches. I heard details that had completely escaped me from music I thought I knew. One of the pictures about shows a spot where I didn't move the bit upwards fast enough. Years ago, I selected V-Carve Pro, so I will talk about how I use V-Carve Pro. To be thorough, Solidworks, Inventor, Fusion 360, FreeCAD or OpenSCAD are all viable options depending on your budget and experience. My goal here is to complement his resource and demonstrate how to design your own bookshelf speakers; specifically, how to use Sketchup and a CNC machine (or power tools) to design and build a better set of bookshelf speakers. Any suggestions on speaker wall mounts for larger bookshelf speakers? 1 year ago. I believed my ears. Talk about overkill. Hey Arx, funny you should mention concrete... in my days at a HiFi seller, we sold a pair of speakers that were indeed in a concrete cabinet. I recommend mh-audio.nl as a comprehensive resource.). I used wood glue to make an airtight seal and used the finishing nailer to keep the wood in place and strategic clamp use to keep things square. (Drivers, by the way, are the parts that vibrate to make sound) But, you might ask, what about tweeters, mids, woofers and crossovers? I wish you as much or more success. For this project, I simplified the approach and found some highly-rated full range drivers from Parts-Express.com with a good frequency range and a flat response. www.diyaudioandvideo.com is an excellent start. Not sure to go with the bipole surround is a better choice instead of just worrying the bookshelves might just drop from the mount... I'm with Greggie. Connecting the driver to the amp with no box, the drivers sound okay. After I finished all the paths, they were then loaded onto the CNC Machine. The audiophile world is full of people who rely on brand names, have a cultural bias, and refer to "audio" authority or their own experience to define what they think is good or best. I needed two types of pockets. I can hear subtle instruments I've never noticed before. So one more calculation to make. Volume and cross-sectional area of the port if needed. Learn about active and passive crossovers. Couple of bandages and steri-strips helped. That's intensely gratifying when it works. very narrow ports won't work as well. Even a piece of hardwood to go on the front would be a nice finish. The lushness of full range music this set produces feels embracing and lush. I will update my instructable as needed. This can get complicated quickly since you have to pick each component, figure out how you want the signal split, and then design a speaker box to optimize the performance of the drivers. I just have a question: have you considered including a passive radiator instead of a port? This project did not happen in one fell swoop. 2 Speaker Brackets Ball Joint Heavy Duty Anti-Theft for Wall Ceiling Adjustable . Sketchup is free for personal use and is a very intuitive process to draw and construct 3D objects. You learn something new every day!! Blow off the dust without breathing it in, and then I put the pieces together, lightly clamping to see how it's going to look. The wood glue forms an airtight bond and a meniscus to seal those small joints making very tight joints unnecessary. I connected the set to a relatively inexpensive amplifier and played a variety of music. I run the risk of generating extra internal frequency reflections or wind noise through the port. 5 years ago It prevents bad interactions between the wave the driver is currently radiating, and reflected waves bouncing off the walls of the box. V-Carve Pro imports the Sketchup components directly and lays them out in 2D form. The port is completely separate from the resonator box in this design. This was a project well worth the effort. For an 11lbs speaker I'm not sure I'd be overly concerned with screws, your speaker isn't that heavy. on Introduction. £20.25. something like concrete with almost no flex could probably work very well for a subwoofer, or isolated woofer in a 2 or 3 way, where you have only low frequencies. ). that we haven't already addressed. I use the vacuum to suck up all the extra dust and use a small chisel to extract the parts. Material cost is under $100 with the drivers taking up most of the cost. This is a nice collection of small speakers, but it would be good to see a review of actual bookshelf/wall-mounted speakers, particularly at the higher end of this price bracket. I think that's the best wall mount for under 100. These are relatively small drivers, so I am not concerned about huge volumes of moving air. (SWM201), Black 4.7 out of 5 stars 801 $30.99$30.99 Get it … CNC machines are fantastic, but they are complex, sophisticated, and dangerous. Share it with us! the bare minimum for decent is around car audio's 6-7" sizes, but really you need 10-12" drivers.and dear g-d, an amp with BLUETOOTH?!!!! The best cabinets I have encountered were from B&W, they used (and still do IRC) a hardwood cabinet (something like Ash) and a clever interior lattice work that was glued into slots on the sides of the cabinets. Really though, for a first time out, this instructible is pretty much on target. It does require some vacuuming when it's all done, but the sawdust doesn't go far. Not all the vectors come through, so double check V-Carve's work. The port length was calculated to likely much longer than I could enclose in a reasonable size box. I have an idea to mount it on a IKEA wood shelf but the speaker cannot be angled downward with this method... Pinpoint am40 worked terrifically for me, and you don't even have to drill holes in your speakers for that one. I think this certainly at least qualifies as a best-of-class reference class speaker for a 3.5" full range driver. Jazz, pop, bluegrass, acoustic pieces, or heavy vocal tracks are outstanding. The hole that accepts the speaker in my case needed to be 3.1 inches. The port is not contained within in the resonant box, so I do not need to alter the internal dimensions of the front chamber. I am not going to wind my own crossovers or get into the weeds about how to break down which frequencies get distributed to which driver. Figure $30ish tops for a pair. I've uploaded my file to the LinuxCNC computer to drive the paths on the CNC. I hope you're inspired to make something cool. Whether an enclosure is ported does not necessarily indicate the quality of the sound it will produce. Light sanding or the use of a rubber mallet to get the parts in tight proved useful. Now that all the numbers have been determined, it's time to do some design work. 123Design is part of a family of apps for getting your feet wet in making things. All Products. Flush mount the driver with the finish in mind before hand. informative. Drivers are manufactured to optimize sound reproduction for a particular range of sound. I designed a hidden tunnel through to the back for the wire. I made a 1/4" straight run at 1/8" depth. The port exits out the bottom back plane, up and over a second MDF baffle and then down the back wall and exits. Very solid cabinet and a great sounding speaker. Showing 13 of 13 Grid List. Most of the beneficial acoustical properties of the box are pressure related at lower frequencies, where the bouncyness of the air in the box is tuned (by box size and/or porting) to put the reflection partly out of phase with the driver's movement at the resonant frequency, where it would otherwise be uncontrolled making that one note really loud compared to the rest. This project did not happen in one fell swoop. I'd appreciate your comments about it. It's cheap, so it's what most mass market speakers are made from. Whether for your new 5.1 surround sound system, your cramped media room, or when just wiring your home to fill it with music, it's best to get speakers off the ground, furniture, and other resonant surfaces, and up to ear level. The humidity of the air, the moisture in the wood, and even your personal preferences, etc., play a larger role in what the optimum speaker cabinet design for a particular set of drivers. (You can also export the 2D DXF files in Sketchup and print them out for the power tools.) If you have any midrange or treble being produced, though, you're going to want to do a really good job with the damping material, otherwise those higher sounds radiated from the back of the cone will come back and mix with the sounds still being radiated causing weird peaks and dips in the response. The flat response means annoying bass and shrill noises won't come of my boxes. There are bunch of other theories and equations that may be just as good if not better. They sound like medium to small speakers, but certainly bigger then they look. Can someone point me in the direction of the best wall mount brackets? Get it Sunday, Jan 3. I've seen two Ikea mounts available, one a bracket that mounts directly to the wall and another a hook mount. If you're looking at some of my drawings, don't be intimidated. 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